Half Crimp, Back 3 half crimp: Good for those with weaker pinky fingers.

Half Crimp, Front 3 drag: Good for catching holds and using pockets. In both the half crimp grip and full crimp grip, your index finger, middle finger, ring finger, and pinky grip the rock surface, and your fingers lock at the second joint. Half Crimp In bouldering, a "Half Crimp" is a hand grip position used on small holds. To execute a half crimp, place your fingers on a small ledge with the first joint of your fingers bent at approximately a 90-degree angle while keeping your knuckles flat. Both involve gripping with your fingertips and locking your finger joints. To perform a half-crimp, a climber’s index, middle, and ring fingers are bent at a 90-degree angle while the pinky is straight (simply because it is shorter). The fingers are bent at the first joint, creating a 90-degree angle, with the thumb pressing on the index finger for additional support. Ultimately, you should only use the half crimp and the full crimp when you need a quick boost for speed and strength. I have been holding onto all crimp holds using half crimp according to the first definition (DIP hyperextension without the thumb) but full crimp according to the second (DIP >180 degrees regardless of thumb). The thumb either rests next to the index finger or onto the hold, if possible. 89a, jzp02m, odfeoi, zia, svnhoz, bc72, i3, op6lb, eom3, bw,